Amid turbulent times in Europe, with the rise of far-right politics, #MeToo lawsuits, and the luxury sector’s downturn, Paris Fashion Week 2025 offered a creative escape. Designers used heritage, surrealism, and retro themes to challenge the bleakness and offer visions of beauty and empowerment.
Reinventing Retro
At Chloé, Chemena Kamali embraced the label’s boho chic roots, presenting a collection rich in floral prints, ruffled shirts, and pleated sleeves. Her airy designs captured the essence of Chloé’s heritage while bringing it into a modern light.
Valentino’s highly anticipated collection marked Alessandro Michele’s debut as the brand’s new creative director. Drawing inspiration from the label’s 1970s archives, Michele showcased vintage-inspired looks adorned with bows, lace gloves, and sequins, evoking a nostalgic elegance.
Alexander McQueen’s second collection by Seán McGirr delved into the house’s gothic past with a twist. McGirr’s designs, inspired by the mythical banshee, featured sharp tailoring and heavy platform heels, a bold nod to McQueen’s dark, dramatic DNA.
At Ann Demeulemeester, Stefano Gallici revived the indie sleaze aesthetic of the 2000s. Ruffled collars, sheer lace fabrics, and disheveled tailoring paid homage to the New Romanticism of his teenage years.
Surrealism in the Spotlight
Surrealism was a dominant theme, echoing the 100th anniversary of the movement’s birth, coinciding with today’s political and social uncertainties. Alphonse Maitrepierre’s collection transformed everyday tech objects—USB sticks, game controllers—into jewelry, envisioning what surrealism would look like in today’s tech-driven world.
Issey Miyake played with surrealist ideas by turning sweaters into dresses, while Ottolinger deconstructed shirts into wearable art. Paloma Wool continued the trend, reimagining knitwear with surprising twists.
Coperni’s show took surrealism to Disneyland, incorporating Mickey Mouse-shaped heels, horned shoes, and other whimsical Disney details, tapping into childhood nostalgia and the darker side of fairy tales.
Function Meets Fashion
Junya Watanabe’s designs drew inspiration from trekking and climbing gear, turning practical elements like zippers and straps into futuristic silhouettes. Meanwhile, Dior’s collection celebrated athleticism and performance with functional yet elegant garments, alluding to ancient Greek aesthetics.
Femmes Fatales and Dark Glamour
Saint Laurent leaned into dark, seductive femininity, with retro-inspired thrillers influencing a collection of oversized suits and sheer, figure-hugging ensembles. The house’s nod to “femmes fatales” explored the balance between danger and pleasure, offering both strength and allure.
Balenciaga’s show opened with trompe l’oeil lingerie, pairing delicate embroidery with strong outerwear like bomber jackets. Demna Gvasalia explored sensuality and eroticism, elements he had yet to fully showcase in his previous collections.
Craftsmanship and Heritage
Chanel showcased a collection created by its in-house studio, filled with intricate embroidery, featherwork, and sheer capes. The collection highlighted the brand’s unparalleled artisan craftsmanship, celebrating its “métiers d’art” heritage.
Nature and Sustainability
Stella McCartney’s eco-friendly collection, made from 91% recyclable materials, showcased flowing silks adorned with bird motifs to raise awareness about the billions of birds killed by the fashion industry. The collection balanced masculine and feminine elements, creating a sense of lightness and freedom.
At Atlein, designer Antonin Tron took inspiration from the documentary “Rebel Dykes,” blending punk and post-punk influences with fetishistic touches. His collection combined army boots with slitted leather skirts, creating a powerful mix of rebellious femininity.
Conclusion
Paris Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2025 offered a wide array of creative responses to today’s uncertain world. Whether embracing heritage, surrealism, or sensuality, designers demonstrated that fashion remains a space for both innovation and self-expression.
