In a surprise move that sent shockwaves through the fashion world, Celine recently announced the departure of its top designer, Hedi Slimane, followed by the quick appointment of his successor, Michael Rider, in a matter of hours.
In what can only be described as one of the fastest changes in the industry’s history, Celine revealed that Slimane would be stepping down as the label’s artistic director. But the brand wasted no time in filling the position, promptly naming Michael Rider, a former design director at Celine and most recently a head designer for Polo Ralph Lauren’s women’s wear line.
“I’m thrilled to welcome Michael back to Celine, a house he knows intimately,” said Séverine Merle, Celine’s CEO, in an official statement. She highlighted Rider’s creative vision, deep connection to the brand’s heritage, and his ability to carry Celine into continued success.
Michael Rider’s Return to Celine
Rider, now in his 40s, has mostly operated behind the scenes throughout his career, but his new role will undoubtedly push him into the fashion spotlight. Although Celine is smaller in scale compared to other LVMH-owned brands like Dior or Louis Vuitton, it is renowned for its strong identity and popularity among celebrities.
This transition also marks a homecoming for Rider. He worked at Celine starting in 2008 under the guidance of former artistic director Phoebe Philo. Rider’s new role makes him one of the few American designers leading an LVMH brand, though he is not the first. Michael Kors held the reins at Celine from 1997 to 2004.
Since 2018, Rider has been responsible for breathing luxury appeal back into Ralph Lauren’s Polo label by introducing collections that seamlessly blend high-end fashion with classic Americana styles, such as leather handbags and suede overcoats paired with signature madras prints and blazers. Whether Rider will bring a similar sensibility to Celine remains to be seen, but it’s clear his aesthetic has differed significantly from Slimane’s.
Slimane’s Legacy at Celine
Slimane joined Celine in 2018 and quickly made his mark, reviving the brand’s profile and dramatically increasing its sales. During his tenure, Slimane is credited with taking the brand’s annual revenue from under 1 billion euros to nearly 2.5 billion euros, a remarkable feat. His collections, with their glam rock and grunge influences, attracted a younger, edgier audience, including many Gen-Z celebrities like Kaia Gerber and Lalisa Manobal (Lisa from K-pop group Blackpink).
Slimane’s Celine stood out for its bold mix of oversized jeans, tailored suits, vintage-inspired coats, and shimmering glam-rock blouses, with collections that blurred the lines between men’s and women’s fashion. He also expanded the brand’s portfolio by introducing men’s wear, a perfume line, and even a couture collection. His vision, reflected in his creative decisions, revitalized the label’s accessory game, with popular items like leather purses and baseball caps becoming major drivers of sales.
A Different Aesthetic: Rider vs. Slimane
While Slimane’s designs were a fusion of glam rock and androgyny, Rider’s work at Polo has leaned more towards understated luxury with a distinctly American touch. Rider’s previous collections featured a balance of timeless, wearable pieces infused with subtle elegance. Now, fashion insiders are left to wonder whether Rider’s appointment will signal a shift in Celine’s aesthetic.
Slimane’s reign at Celine wasn’t without controversy. His stark departure from his predecessor Phoebe Philo’s vision—known for minimalist and mature designs beloved by professional women—was met with mixed reactions. While Philo’s Celine spoke to a more refined, intellectual clientele, Slimane’s version was aimed squarely at the younger, rebellious crowd, influenced by indie rock icons like The Strokes.
Additionally, Slimane’s decision to drop the accent from Celine’s name, changing it from “Céline” to the simplified “Celine,” raised eyebrows and further cemented his rebellious persona in the industry.
Where Will Slimane Go Next?
As for Slimane’s future, many in the fashion industry speculate that his final collections for Celine may offer hints. With his last few designs featuring a polished “ladies-who-lunch” vibe, some have suggested that Slimane might be eyeing a role at Chanel, a brand currently without a head designer. Whether this prediction materializes remains to be seen, but Slimane’s next move is sure to be a hot topic in fashion circles.
The Future of Celine Under Rider
Rider, who has typically kept a low profile, now faces the challenge of keeping Celine relevant and maintaining its connection to pop culture. Unlike Slimane, who became a celebrity in his own right, Rider will need to step into the spotlight and engage with the media and the brand’s loyal followers. Given his history with Celine, however, many believe Rider has what it takes to honor the brand’s heritage while introducing a fresh perspective.
With Slimane’s departure, a new chapter begins for Celine. Rider’s creative direction will be closely watched as he attempts to balance the brand’s storied history with his own distinct style. Only time will tell if Rider can achieve the same level of success that Slimane brought to the table.
Conclusion: The Whiplash of Change in Fashion
The departure of Hedi Slimane and the appointment of Michael Rider at Celine represent a significant shift in the fashion world. As Rider takes the reins, there’s anticipation about how he will evolve the brand while maintaining its essence. While Slimane’s era at Celine was defined by bold, edgy designs, Rider’s approach may bring a more refined and timeless appeal to the iconic fashion house. This quick transition showcases the fast-paced and unpredictable nature of the fashion industry, where change is often the only constant.